Flash is a supplementary light, like your very own personal miniature sun, which fills in the detail your camera can't see. As we know the dynamic range of the camera is much lower than our own eyes' dynamic range.
Where does flash fit in the photographic triangle?
Aperture - a correct flash exposure relies 100% on aperture. If we dial in the aperture we want the flash will give us the correct flash-to-subject distance scale. This is the distance the light has to be from the subject in order to get a correct exposure using the aperture you have selected.
Shutter speed - determines how much ambient light appears in the picture usually -2 stops to let enough light through.
ISO - can be increased to make the camera more sensitive to light which will enable you to extend the range of your flash.
You can get weaker light by powering down the flash. This is helpful when the flash-to-subject distance is not practicable as in macro photography and also when you want a softer light on your subject.
High speed sync
Allows you to select faster shutter speeds. But there is a trade off as it reduces the power of your flash.
Fill light
You can use your flash as fill light on a bright day as your camera will have problems exposing all the highlights and shadows. This is particularly useful when shooting outdoor portraits.
Bounce flash
For softer light you can bounce your flash so the light hits the ceiling or a wall and then falls on your subject. This produces softer light. If you use a catchlight panel this produces a catch light in the subjects eyes and adds that little sparkle which makes a portrait.
Off camera flash
Taking your flash off the camera allows you to shape the light and get contrasting and interesting shots especially in portrait work.
Rear-Curtain Sync
Cameras focal plane shutters contain 2 curtains. The first opens when you press the shutter release button and the second curtain closes the shutter once the exposure has been recorded.
The flash usually fires when the first curtain is opened at the beginning of the exposure. Rear-curtain sync is when you set your camera so the flash fires when the second curtain is beginning to close. This enables you to capture a longer exposure where motion is involved.
Manual V TTL
TTL works on the premise of sending out a 'pre-flash' an infrared beam that strikes your intended subject and then travels back to your camera telling your camera's computer how much power is needed to create a correct exposure. This calculation is based on the camera's meter reading and as I found out when re-visiting exposure this reading doesn't always give you the results you want especially when working with blacks and whites.
In saying that TTL is brilliant when you don't have the time to set apertures and workout flash-to-subject distances for example in situations like photographing events and street photography.
I think for the moment I prefer working with manual opting for TTL when the flash is off camera. However, I am sure that will change once I start using my flash more.
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